Classic lashes, Hybrid Volume, Russian Volume: three names, three ways of applying extensions and three different results. The right choice depends on the client, but also on your skill level and the time you have available.
Here is what sets these three techniques apart, and how to choose the one that suits each eye.
Classic: one extension per natural lash
With classic lashes, a single extension is bonded to one isolated natural lash. The fiber is thicker than for Volume, usually around 0.15, which gives a defined, crisp and precise result, much like a mascara look. It is the foundation technique, the first one you learn.
At GEMELLA, classic lashes are applied with Hestia, Flat Velvet 0.15.
Hybrid Volume: light fans
Hybrid Volume sits between the other two techniques: light fans, usually made of 2 to 3 fine extensions, are applied to each natural lash. The look is fuller than with classic lashes, without reaching the very dense effect of Russian Volume.
Names vary from one training center to another, and it is also called light volume: what matters is the number of extensions per natural lash and their thickness.
Russian Volume: handmade fans
Russian Volume relies on fans made by hand: several very fine extensions, usually 0.07 or less, are spread open into a fan and then bonded together onto a single natural lash. Depending on how many there are, the effect is more or less dense, fluffy and textured.
It is the most demanding technique: it requires perfect isolation, even fans and a careful balance of weight. At GEMELLA, it is applied with Athéna, black 0.07 and Aura, brown 0.07, also available in mini boxes.
Comparison: Classic, Hybrid Volume and Russian Volume
| Criterion | Classic | Hybrid Volume | Russian Volume |
|---|---|---|---|
| Extensions per natural lash | 1 | 2 to 3 | 3 to 6 or more |
| Fiber | Thick, around 0.15 | Finer than Classic | Very fine, 0.07 or less |
| Result | Defined, crisp, natural | Full and light | Dense, fluffy, textured |
| Level | Beginner | Intermediate | Advanced |
| Tweezers | Two pairs of isolation tweezers | Isolation and volume | Isolation and volume |
Which technique for which client?
- Strong, even natural lashes, natural effect desired: classic lashes.
- Fine or sparse lashes that need density: light volume or Russian Volume, which spreads the effect over several fine fibers rather than a single thick one.
- Very full look, glamorous effect: Russian Volume, often with a more pronounced curl. Our guide to B, C, CC or M curl will help you choose.
Whatever the technique, an infill is generally offered every 2 to 3 weeks, as natural lashes shed along with their extension.
Where to start as a Lash Artist?
The usual order: first master classic lashes (isolation, adhesive control, retention), then move on to fans. This is in fact the prerequisite for Débo Beauty's Russian Volume training, which is aimed at technicians who already have a solid grounding in classic lashes.
In Carouge, near Geneva, Débo Beauty offers two 2-day courses: the classic lashes and Hybrid Volume training, followed by the Russian Volume Perfect Volume training (taught in French).
What equipment for each technique?
- Classic: 0.15 extensions such as Hestia and two pairs of isolation tweezers.
- Hybrid Volume and Russian Volume: fine fibers such as Athéna or Aura, isolation tweezers and volume tweezers for the fans.
Our guides cover these choices in detail: how to choose your eyelash extension tweezers and how to choose the thickness of your extensions.
In summary
Classic lashes means one extension per lash for a defined result; Hybrid Volume, light fans of 2 to 3 extensions; Russian Volume, very fine and very full fans. Start with classic lashes, then progress to volume once your isolation is reliable.
The full range is in the Eyelash extensions collection, and the tools are in the Tweezers collection.