After the technique, the curl is the choice that changes a look the most. The same length set in C or CC gives a completely different effect: how open the eye looks, the intensity, the client's comfort and even retention depend on it.
Here is how we choose, in the salon and in training, between the four curls of the GEMELLA range: B, C, CC and M.
What is the curl of an eyelash extension?
The curl describes how the extension lifts between its base, glued to the natural lash, and its tip. The stronger the curl, the faster the extension lifts and the more open the eye looks.
It is always chosen together with three other parameters:
- the thickness, for example 0.07 for Russian Volume or 0.15 for classic lashes;
- the length, which must suit the strength of the natural lash;
- the mapping, i.e. how lengths and curls are distributed across the eye.
The four GEMELLA curls at a glance
| Curl | Effect | For which look? | At GEMELLA |
|---|---|---|---|
| B | Slight lift, very natural | Straight natural lashes, clients who want a subtle result | Athéna, Aura |
| C | Classic, versatile lift | Most eyes, first sets | Athéna, Aura and their mini boxes |
| CC | More open look, glamorous effect | Clients who want intensity, volume sets | Athéna, Aura, Hestia and the mini boxes |
| M | Straight base then a strong lift | Hooded eyelids, natural lashes pointing downwards | Athéna and Athéna mini |
How to choose the curl for the eye shape?
- Almond eyes: almost every curl works. C is the safe choice, CC adds intensity.
- Round eyes: too strong a curl makes them look even rounder. B or C keep a harmonious effect.
- Hooded eyelids: the straight base of the M slips under the eyelid and the tip lifts above it, where a C would stay partly hidden.
- Deep-set eyes: a C or a CC, with reasonable lengths, opens the eye without the extensions touching the brow bone.
- Downturned outer corner: a CC on the outer half helps lift the look visually.
And for the natural lashes?
Eye shape is not everything: the direction and strength of the natural lashes matter just as much.
- Lashes growing downwards: you need a stronger curl, CC or M, to correct the direction.
- Straight lashes: C lifts naturally, CC opens the eye more.
- Lashes that are already very curled: a B or a C is enough, otherwise the result looks artificial.
- Fine or fragile lashes: choose a moderate curl, short lengths and a light thickness such as 0.07.
Curl and retention: the mistake to avoid
The stronger the curl, the smaller the contact area between the extension and the natural lash. A CC or an M placed on a lash that doesn't follow the same direction holds less well and can twist.
The rule: the base of the extension must follow the natural lash along the whole bonding area. If it doesn't, go down one curl or adjust the placement angle. Good isolation, with precise isolation tweezers, also helps you bond cleanly lash by lash.
Mixing curls in one mapping
Nothing forces you to use a single curl per set. Many Lash Artists work, for example, with:
- a C in the inner corner, for softness;
- a CC from the centre to the outer corner, to open the eye;
- short lengths in the inner corner, with the Athéna MIX 4–6 mm mini box or the Aura 5 mm mini box.
Which curl to choose when starting out?
C remains the easiest curl to master: it forgives small angle mistakes, suits most clients and gives a natural result. Once your technique is confident, CC and M let you personalise each look further.
In summary
Choose the curl according to the eye shape, the direction of the natural lashes and the effect the client wants: B and C for a natural look, CC to open the eye, M for hooded eyelids.
You will find B, C, CC and M curls in our Athéna, black Russian Volume and Aura, brown Russian Volume lashes, and CC in classic lashes with Hestia, 0.15 Flat Velvet. The whole range is in the Eyelash extensions collection.
To learn how to build a mapping for every look, Débo Beauty offers in Geneva a classic lashes and Hybrid Volume training and a Russian Volume Perfect Volume training (taught in French).