A beautiful lash set that doesn't last, a client who feels discomfort, natural lashes falling out too early: in most cases, isolation is to blame. It is the most discreet step of the application, and yet retention, comfort and the health of the natural lash all depend on it.
Here are the most common isolation mistakes, how to spot them and how to fix them.
What is good isolation?
Isolating means separating a single natural lash from its neighbors and keeping it clear while you apply the extension, or the fan in Volume work. Successful isolation means:
- a single natural lash per extension or per fan;
- a base placed a short distance from the eyelid, around 0.5 to 1 mm, never touching the skin;
- good contact between the extension and the natural lash along its lower part;
- a direction consistent with the neighboring lashes.
The most common isolation mistakes
1. Lashes stuck together
Two natural lashes caught in the same extension, or glued together by excess adhesive. This is the most common mistake, and the most important one to avoid: each lash has its own growth cycle. When one grows or falls out, it pulls on the other, which causes discomfort for the client and can make the neighboring lash fall out prematurely.
2. An extension stuck to the skin
The base touches the eyelid. The client often feels pulling or irritation, and the extension does not follow the growth of the lash properly. Always keep a small gap between the base and the skin.
3. A base placed too far from the root
Conversely, an extension placed too high on the natural lash does not have enough contact surface: it moves, changes direction and falls out sooner. It also becomes more visible as the lash grows.
4. Too much or too little adhesive
Too much adhesive forms a small bead at the base, weighs the lash down and encourages stuck lashes. Too little, and the extension comes off within the following days. A thin amount, evenly distributed at the base, is enough.
5. An extension too heavy for the lash
An extension that is too long or too thick for a fine lash, or for one in its early growth phase, wears it out. Adapt the length and thickness to each lash; our guide to eyelash extension thickness covers this point in detail.
6. The wrong direction
An extension applied at an angle to the natural lash or to its neighbors gives an uneven result and holds less well. Take the time to follow the natural axis of the lash, especially at the inner and outer corners.
How do you check your isolation?
- Check as you go: run the tip of your isolation tweezers between the lashes of one zone before moving on to the next.
- Brush the lashes at the end of the lash set: a lash that does not separate from the others signals that lashes are stuck together.
- Look from several angles: from the front, from the side and from below, with good lighting.
- Ask the client whether they feel any pulling when they open their eyes.
How do you fix an isolation mistake?
If two lashes are stuck together and the adhesive has not set yet, separate them immediately with your tweezers. If the adhesive is dry, never force it: remove the extension concerned with a professional remover, then reapply it on a well-isolated lash. Pulling on stuck lashes damages the natural lash.
The right tools help you isolate well
- Suitable isolation tweezers, fine and perfectly closing: see our guide to choosing your isolation or volume tweezers, and our Precision isolation and Curved isolation tweezers.
- Tape to hold down the lower lashes and clear the roots of the upper lashes: see our article on using tape during the application.
- A technique suited to your level: with Volume, you isolate the same single lash as with classic lashes, but the fan requires more control. Our article on the differences between classic lashes, Hybrid Volume and Russian Volume will help you choose.
In summary
One natural lash per extension, a base close to the root but never on the skin, a thin amount of adhesive and a consistent direction. Check zone by zone, brush at the end of the lash set and never force a stuck lash.
Isolation is learned above all through practice, with someone who corrects your technique. In Geneva, Débo Beauty offers in-person classic lashes and Hybrid Volume training and Russian Volume Perfect Volume training (taught in French), with practice on live models.