Black remains the go-to color for eyelash extensions. But more and more clients are asking for a softer look, and brown is exactly what they want. The choice between the two changes the result as much as the curl or the length.
Here is how to choose between black and brown eyelash extensions depending on the client and the look she wants.
What the color of the extensions changes
- Black creates contrast: the lash line stands out clearly, with an effect similar to a line of eyeliner. It is the choice for intense, defined eyes.
- Brown blends in more with the natural lash. The eyes still look open and enhanced, but the effect is softer and brighter, even with a dense set.
The color changes neither the technique nor the retention: retention depends mainly on isolation, the adhesive and the growth cycle of the natural lashes.
Criteria for choosing
- The color of the natural lashes: on light, blonde or red lashes, black can create a sharp break at the root; brown gives a softer transition.
- Hair and eyebrows: eyes framed by dark eyebrows carry black well; light eyebrows often go better with brown.
- Skin tone: on very fair skin, brown avoids an overly graphic effect.
- The desired look: for a made-up, intense effect, go for black; for a “my lashes, only better” effect, go for brown.
- The client’s habits: a client who wears little makeup will often feel more comfortable with brown for everyday wear.
Black or brown by client profile
| Client profile | Recommended color |
|---|---|
| Dark hair and eyebrows, wants intensity | Black |
| Light, blonde or red hair | Brown |
| Very fair skin, wants a natural look | Brown |
| Dense Russian Volume but a soft look | Brown, or a mix of black and brown |
| Eyeliner effect, very defined eyes | Black |
Can you mix black and brown?
Yes, and it is a good way to soften a set without losing definition. A few examples:
- brown in the inner corner and black towards the outer corner, to gently elongate the eyes;
- alternating black and brown along the whole lash line, for dense but less harsh volume;
- brown on the shortest lengths and black on the longest.
The mix is planned from the mapping stage onwards, by noting the color of each zone next to the lengths.
GEMELLA collections in black and brown
- Athéna, black Russian Volume: intense black 0.07 Super Silk fiber, in B, C, CC and M curls, lengths from 6 to 13 mm and MIX. Also available in a mini size.
- Aura, brown Russian Volume: the same 0.07 Super Silk fiber in brown, in B, C and CC curls, lengths from 6 to 13 mm and MIX. Also available in a mini size.
- Hestia, black Classic Flat Velvet: 0.15 flat fiber in a CC curl, for a defined look with one extension per lash.
Athéna and Aura have the same thickness, so you can mix them within the same set with no difference in weight. To learn more about this, see our guide to eyelash extension thickness.
Frequently asked questions
Do brown extensions have shorter retention?
No. Color has no effect on retention, which depends on isolation, the adhesive, the application conditions and the natural lash cycle.
Does brown show in Russian Volume?
Yes. Brown Russian Volume gives a full look, just softer than black. That is precisely the point of the Aura collection.
Do black and brown need the same mapping?
The mapping stays the same: lengths, curls and distribution are chosen according to the eye, not the color.
In summary
Black for contrast and intensity, brown for softness and a natural look, and a mix of both to soften a dense set. Look at the natural lashes, the hair, the eyebrows and the desired look before choosing.
Find Athéna and Aura in the Eyelash extensions collection. To learn how to build these sets, Débo Beauty in Geneva offers a Russian Volume Perfect Volume training (taught in French).